Notes From The Field
Planning advice, packing lists and route breakdowns from the road — written before you ask, not after.

Mikumi in a Weekend: What You Can Actually See in Three Days
Four hours from Dar es Salaam, no flight, no week off work. An honest account of what a two-night trip to Mikumi delivers — and what it does not.

The Southern Circuit: Tanzania Without the Queue of Land Cruisers
Nyerere, Ruaha, Mikumi and Udzungwa hold more land than the northern parks and a fraction of the vehicles. Here is what you trade, and what you get for it.

Boat, Foot or Vehicle: Three Ways to See Nyerere
Nyerere is one of the few Tanzanian parks where you are allowed out of the car. What each way of moving through it actually shows you.

Safari With Children: What Works, and What Nobody Tells You
Game drives are long, hot and quiet, and that is a lot to ask of a seven-year-old. How to build a trip that a child enjoys rather than endures.

What a Tanzania Safari Actually Costs, and Where the Money Goes
Park fees, vehicles, guides, camps — a plain breakdown of why a day on safari costs what it does, and which savings are real.

When to Visit Tanzania: A Month-by-Month Guide
There is no bad month, but there are wrong months for particular trips. What each part of the year actually looks like on the ground.

When To See The Great Migration: A Month-By-Month Guide
The wildebeest don't follow a fixed calendar, but their movement is predictable enough to plan around. Here's where the herds sit through the year.

What to Photograph on Safari, and What to Leave to Memory
You will come home with four hundred photographs of a lion sleeping. A few practical decisions produce a better set and a better week.

Ngorongoro: Both Overrated and Unmissable
The crater is the most photographed place in Tanzania and the most crowded. It is still worth the money — but not for the reasons the brochures give.

Choosing The Right Kilimanjaro Route For You
Machame, Lemosho, Marangu — each route trades off scenery, crowd size and summit success rate differently. Here's how to pick.

Zanzibar Beyond the Beach
Most people give Zanzibar four days and spend them horizontal. Fair enough — but the island has a history that is worth one of those days.

Why Most People Who Fail on Kilimanjaro Fail
It is almost never fitness. Four things account for most of the people who turn back, and three of them are decisions made before the climb starts.

What To Pack For Your First Tanzania Safari
Neutral colors, a good pair of binoculars, and layers for cold mornings — a practical packing list from guides who've seen every packing mistake.

Tipping in Tanzania: What Is Expected, and What Is Not
Nobody tells you the numbers, so people either over-tip out of guilt or under-tip out of ignorance. Here are the actual figures.

The Big Five Is a Hunting Term, and Other Things Nobody Mentions
Lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, buffalo — grouped not because they are the best animals to see but because they were the most dangerous to shoot on foot.